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BTW, you should clean your rotors at the very least as others have mentioned every time you change pads. You can get half used pads to bed into rotors.Ī used rotor will have wear patterns/ grooves that developed based on the irregular wear from the old pads. The bedding material is literally brake pad material and it's consistent throughout the pad. My understanding is the bedding material is an initial coating for the rotor surface like a glue, then the main brake pad material wears into the subtle variances on the surface of rotor. The actual 'bedding material' is apparently a very thin coating on new brake pads, that needs to transfer to the rotor via the specific bedding process. This is correct, but it's because sanding has removed the pad material from the rotors. You have the basic idea, BMX'r but haven't quite nailed the details No skidding, no coming to a complete stop, and just short intervals. They work perfect without a single squeak. I just went for a ride in the hills on some steeps. From soft braking to full power, not a sound. then about 10 or 20 braking passes, they went completely quiet. I just rode back and forth on my driveway. The braking power goes from maybe 25% as you start the procedure, to 100% within about 5 minutes. I followed SRAM's factory brake pad bedding procedure in the following video exactly, and it's amazing how you can feel them bed. The next step is very important! Bedding your pads properly. Here the pad on the left is sanded and the pad on the right is how it was coming off the bike. The wheel is perfect to sand and turn a little, sand and turn a little and holds it nice and tight. I took the rotor off, flipped it over, mounted it back on with 3 screws so I could sand the other side. My Back rotor being sanded with a hardwood sanding block to keep it flat. Sanding the pads takes only about 20 seconds. Sanding is always time consuming to do it right no mater what you are sanding. It took me about an hour to do all the work. I blew the sanding residue off with my air hose. Just some 320 grit sand paper and a sanding block. I think it's just product placement for GMBN, but you don't need it. Brake cleaner makes my nose run profusely for hours when I used to use it. I'm not a fan of chemicals being used unnecessarily. I watched this video on cleaning your brake pads and rotors.
![breaking the quiet 3 1080 breaking the quiet 3 1080](https://i0.wp.com/horrorpatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/A-Quiet-Place-Part-II-3.jpg)
I was thinking maybe the brake pads weren't the same ones I had before (they were), and they feel and sound different? Maybe my back and front rotors need to be changed? I noticed my back rotor had change color a little. The next day I rode the sanding sound was apparent on all braking. On my first ride the brakes worked fine, but made a sort of light sanding sort of sound (not squeaking) when I'm going down long steeps. After I bled the brakes, I figured I'd put new pads on to start fresh. The fluid was dirty and was more than likely the original 3 year old fluid. The rotors are just a part that I don't have to change that often. I my mind the brake pads are one independent part that needs to be replace often. The rotors I'd change every once in a while. The brakes start making noise and I feel like I'm losing braking power, "Time for new pads".
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It seems like I always think I need new brake pads.